Couple standing in front of the I-Hos Gallery in Comox.
Comox Valley | Jordan Dyck
The Infinite Coast

The Infinite Coast

Campbell River to Nanaimo

7 Destinations
7 days
160 km | 99 mi
Your Journey:
Your Journey

    There’s a compelling rhythm to this section of The Infinite Coast on central Vancouver Island: wild waterways, fertile valleys, alpine landscapes, small-town culture, scenic coastal roads, and inviting beaches. Rather than racing along the east coast of the Island, this itinerary allows time to linger, and let each landscape and each experience register before the next one begins.

    Begin with a short flight from Vancouver to Campbell River and over seven days travel south toward Nanaimo before sailing back to Vancouver with BC Ferries. In between, leave room for wildlife, mountain landscapes, ultra-local meals, and the pleasure of taking the slower coastal road.

    Best time to go: Spring or fall, when the pace is quieter and there’s often more choice in accommodation.

    Part 1

    Campbell River

    Trade the drive up-Island for a flight from Vancouver to Campbell River, complete with views of mountains, islands, and the waterways of the coast. Pick up a rental car at the airport and head for beautiful Elk Falls Provincial Park, where forest trails lead you to powerful Elk Falls, visible from a suspension bridge stretched above the canyon—a fitting first encounter with the scale and natural beauty of central Vancouver Island.

    Back in Campbell River, follow the shoreline to Discovery Pier, Canada’s first saltwater fishing pier, that extends out over Discovery Passage. Buy your favourite ice cream flavour and watch boats come and go through the passage. If you’re really lucky, you may spot a passing orca.

    Make time, too, for the Museum at Campbell River and learn about the history of the region, including more than 30 First Nations and the settlers who followed, bringing with them industries such as fishing and logging.

    Time for dinner? Campbell River, known as the “Salmon Capital of the World,” is unsurprisingly a great place for seafood. And when you’re ready to call it a night, options include historic Painter’s Lodge, oceanfront Anchor Inn & Suites, and luxurious Naturally Pacific Resort.

    • A humpback whale traveling south of Seymour Narrows in Campbell River
      Humpback whale near Campbell River | Boomer Jerritt
    • A person walks across a metal suspension bridge high above the forest floor at Elk Falls Provincial Park in Campbell River. The sun is setting. A rocky outcrop with trees is on the other side.
      Elk Falls Provincial Park | Tourism Vancouver/Jordan Dyck
    • A person walks down the dock at Painter's Lodge.
      Painter's Lodge, Campbell River | Destination Campbell River/Bluetree Photography

    Part 2

    Campbell River

    Day two in Campbell River is the perfect time for a wildlife-viewing or flightseeing tour. Join Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours for an Indigenous-led experience in the territories of the Homalco First Nation. Depending on the season and the tour, time on the water can combine whale and/or bear viewing with opportunities to learn directly from Homalco guides about their culture, lands, and relationships with this special place.

    Aboriginal Journeys Wildlife and Adventure Tours is the city’s longest-running whale- and wildlife-watching tour company, and they offer 3.5- and 5-hour tours hosted by local guides.

    For a different perspective, take to the air with 49 North Helicopters. Scenic flights reveal glaciers, fjords, mountains, and waterways from above, with options that can include landing on a remote beach or mountainside.

    • Grizzly bear viewing with Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours
      Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours | Jordan Dyck
    • An orca jumps out of the ocean
      Campbell River | Garry Henkel

    Part 3

    Comox Valley

    Follow the Island Highway south for 45 minutes to the serene Comox Valley, framed by the Salish Sea to the east and the mountains of Strathcona Provincial Park to the west.

    Begin in downtown Courtenay and don’t miss I-Hos Gallery, owned and operated by the K’ómoks First Nation. The gallery presents traditional and contemporary Northwest Coast artwork and offers an opportunity to purchase work directly from a First Nations-owned business.

    Visit the Courtenay and District Museum & Paleontology Centre, home to the first Elasmosaur fossil discovered in BC. The museum offers engaging exhibits and seasonal fossil-digging programs.

    Dedicate your afternoon to the flavours of the valley. Island Gourmet Trails offers guided visits to local farms, vineyards, and restaurants, and they can customize their tours to fit your preferences.

    Prefer a self-guided tour? Possible stops include 40 Knots Winery, Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery, Raven’s Moon craft cidery, and Wayward Distillery, which makes spirits from sustainable BC honey.

    Enjoy a leisurely dinner at a popular spot such as Courtenay institution Atlas Cafe, or enjoy West Coast fine dining at Locals Restaurant. (Hint: Try the BC Seafood Trio.)

    Overnight at the charming Old House Hotel, or book a villa or a cottage at Crown Isle Resort.

    • Brightly-coloured red and yellow archway and railing leading out to a dock lined with fishing vessels. A sign reads,
      Comox Fisherman's Wharf | Discover Comox Valley
    • A prehistoric skeleton in Courtenay District Museum
      Courtenay District Museum | Experience Comox Valley/Peter O'Hara

    Part 4

    Mount Washington

    Consider breakfast in Comox at local favourite Tidal Cafe before starting the 30-minute drive to Mount Washington Alpine Resort.

    Here, the experience changes with the season. In summer, ride the chairlift to the top for 360-degree views, take on the resort’s bike park, and hike along forested trails to subalpine meadows in neighbouring Strathcona Provincial Park. You can also boost your adrenaline on a zipline or a bungee trampoline. In winter, the hills are blanketed with deep snow perfect for downhill and Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, tubing, and more.

    Dine overlooking the mountain scenery at Eagle View Bistro, and spend the night in Deer Lodge or Bear Lodge at the base of the chairlift. Rental units are available with amenities like kitchens and private hot tubs.

    • Person in a blue hoodie and black pants stands on a wooden boardwalk trail that runs across what looks to be a marshy area with trees in the background.
      Strathcona Provincial Park | Kaila Walton
    • Skiers riding the Eagle Chairlift on a sunny day at Mount Washington above
      Mount Washington | Nick Thornton
    • A mountain biker on the Wizard bike trail at Mt Washington
      Mount Washington | Boomer Jerritt

    Part 5

    Cumberland and Qualicum Beach

    From Mount Washington it’s about 30 minutes’ drive to Cumberland, a former coal-mining community that has evolved into one of the Island’s major hubs for mountain biking and outdoor culture.

    Pop in for a bite at cafés housed in heritage buildings, and enjoy the network of walking and biking trails that lead to historic sites around town. Coal Creek Historic Park, for example, was once home to the town’s Chinese and Japanese communities. Nearby Comox Lake, fed by the Comox Glacier, offers opportunities for hiking, biking, and boating.

    Cumberland Brewing Co. is a great place to grab lunch before you continue south toward Qualicum Beach along the scenic Old Island Highway (Hwy 19A). En route, treat yourself to a cinnamon bun at Just Like Mom’s bakery in the town of Union Bay, or to the freshest oysters at the historic Fanny Bay Inn.

    Take a short detour inland to visit Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park, where you can book a guided tour deep into the underground caverns at Horne Lake Caves. And when you reach pretty Qualicum Beach, head to the waterfront for a stroll along the oceanside path. Visit Milner Gardens & Woodland for a walk among the trees and wild gardens, and, if time permits, enjoy a cuppa at the charming on-site teahouse.

    Travelling with kids (or your own inner child)? At Little Qualicum Cheeseworks, you can sample their delicious wares and also meet the resident farm animals, including goats, cows, and sheep.

    Overnight options are plentiful in both Qualicum Beach and in Parksville, 10-15 minutes south. One popular option is Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort, which offers everything from oceanview suites to rustic cabins. The Grotto Spa here is a must. Alternatively, the luxurious Beach Club Resort is located along a stretch of sand that goes on seemingly forever when the tide is out.

    • Cumberland Brewing Co.
      Cumberland | BC Ale Trail
    • Couple sitting on a bench overlooking the ocean in Qualicum Beach.
      Qualicum Beach | Parksville Qualicum Beach/Jordan Dyck
    • The Grotto Spa at Tigh Na Mara
      The Grotto Spa at Tigh Na Mara | Tourism Vancouver Island/Tigh Na Mara/Jordan Dyck

    Part 6

    Qualicum Beach and Parksville

    There is much to do in this area, including several parks well worth visiting. Start at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, where old-growth forest meets a kilometre-long swath of beach known for the vast distance the tide goes out, leaving behind it numerous tidepools and tons of soft sand. In winter and spring, this is a great place to observe migratory shorebirds.

    About 20 minutes inland, at Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park off Highway 4, forested trails follow the river towards a series of waterfalls. Continue another 10 minutes east to MacMillan Provincial Park, home to the iconic Cathedral Grove, one of the Island’s most accessible stands of ancient Douglas fir trees, some an estimated 800 years old.

    Another highlight, located about 20 minutes southwest of Parksville, is Englishman River Falls Provincial Park. Walk along thickly forested trails to two spectacular waterfalls that cascade along the riverbed and plunge into a pristine canyon.

    • Little Qualicum Falls | Jordan Dyck
      Little Qualicum Falls | Jordan Dyck
    • Cathedral Grove on Vancouver Island
      Cathedral Grove on Vancouver Island | Sean Scott
    • Aerial view of Englishman River Falls on Vancouver Island in the fall. Green trees surround the waterfall as it plunges down below.
      Englishman River Falls on Vancouver Island | Tourism Vancouver Island

    Part 7

    Nanaimo

    Drive 35 minutes south to the lively city of Nanaimo. Orient yourself with a stroll along the picturesque Harbourfront Walkway and head toward Maffeo Sutton Park. From here, a seasonal passenger ferry takes you to Saysutshun, a car-free island in Nanaimo Harbour. Book a Saysutshun Interpretive Walking Tour to spend time with a Snuneymuxw guide and learn about Snuneymuxw First Nation sacred village sites, traditions, and the cultural history of Saysutshun.

    Back in Nanaimo, the Old City Quarter beckons with its charming array of owner-operated businesses including boutique shops, specialty food stores, inviting restaurants, and cozy cafes—perfect for a leisurely exploration. 

    For a dining experience unlike any other, hop on another passenger ferry to the Dinghy Dock Pub, floating right in Nanaimo’s vibrant harbour. Save room for dessert—and a playful final taste of the Island—and sample the city’s signature treat at a stop or two along the Nanaimo Bar Trail.

    Conclude your adventure with a scenic return trip to Vancouver on a sailing with BC Ferries. Take a seat by a window, or head to the outdoor deck and soak in the views as forested shorelines give way to the Gulf Islands and then the open water as you make your way toward the Coast Mountains beyond.

    • Nanaimo Harbour
      Nanaimo Harbour | Tourism Nanaimo/Tyler M. Cave
    • Ferry to Saysutshun (Newcastle Island) Marine Provincial Park
      Saysutshun | Tourism Nanaimo/Tyler Cave
    • People enjoying Nanaimo bars
      Nanaimo bars | Tourism Nanaimo/Lexa Bergen
    • A couple enjoying their view of the Salish Sea onboard a BC Ferries vessel heading from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver to Departure Bay in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.
      BC Ferries | Abby Cooper
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