Ronan Gunn Ronan Gunn The Infinite Coast
Hot springs and hidden waterfalls: a jet boat journey into the Gardner Canal
Written by: Hayley Gendron | May 26, 2026
The Gardner Canal, one of the most remote and dramatic waterways of BC, doesn’t announce itself all at once. It reveals itself slowly, scenery changing around every bend. Granite walls rise straight from the water, and waterfalls spill from every angle into the sea below.
In September, I set out from Kitimat on a full-day hot springs tour with Northern BC Jet Boat Tours that included stops at Shearwater Hot Springs, and at a unique river spring. Travelling by jet boat, with its shallow draft and maneuverability, allowed us to access areas that conventional boats can’t reach.
Near Kitimat | Ronan Gunn Through the Douglas Channel: Kitimat to Gardner Canal
Leaving Kitimat through the Douglas Channel, the surface broke almost immediately with the arching backs of humpback whales. One after another, they surfaced and vanished, flukes cutting the rain-dappled water. Our guide Rob explained that tail photos can be submitted to the BC Whales database to identify individual animals.
As we entered the Gardner Canal, the mist lifted just enough to reveal the towering cliffs and the waterfalls cascading hundreds of metres into the Pacific. The air smelled of cedar and rain with eagles circling overhead, and the fjords themselves felt like the spine of the coast.
Humpback | Ronan Gunn 
Near Kitimat | Ronan Gunn 
Kitimat | Paddle BC/Dave Heath -
Shearwater Hot Springs | Ronan Gunn -
River split | Ronan Gunn
Shearwater Hot Springs and the river split
By midday we reached Shearwater Hot Springs, tucked at the edge of the rainforest and sheltered by a rustic wooden structure strung with colourful buoys and flags. Steam rose from the pool below, and after hours on the cool open fjord, slipping into the warm water was its own reward.
Farther up a tributary, we waded through a shallow river alive with salmon at the end of their life cycle. Flashes of silver and red darted between our feet, with sedges chewed by grizzlies lining the riverbanks. What made the site so surreal was the water itself: one side of the river was icy cold, the other almost too hot to touch. Standing with one foot in each temperature, the two currents colliding, the raw energy of the place felt almost elemental.
Near Kitimat | Ronan Gunn Kitlope: the homeland behind the water
The Gardner Canal lies within the traditional territories of the Xenaksiala, Haisla, and Gitga’at Nations, and the cultural and ecological significance of the area is staggering. Deeper into the canal, these waters form part of the Kitlope Heritage Conservancy (Huchsduwachsdu Nuyem Jees), one of the largest intact temperate rainforests on Earth, protected through joint stewardship between the Haisla Nation and BC Parks.
This is the homeland of Cecil Paul (Wa’xaid), the late Xenaksiala Elder whose work helped safeguard the Kitlope and its headwaters. Whales, seals, eagles, grizzlies, and salmon move through these waters not as spectacle but as part of a living system that has been tended for generations. To understand this place beyond its beauty, read Following the Good River and Stories from the Magic Canoe by Cecil Paul and Briony Penn.
Visiting in September meant quieter waterways, fewer boats, and a chance to experience the canal slowing into its shoulder season. This gave us a rare opportunity to witness The Infinite Coast of BC in a way that felt both intimate and immense.
Near Kitimat | Northern BC Tourism/Abby Cooper 
Near Kitimat | Ronan Gunn 
Humpback | Ronan Gunn 
Rob Bryce of Northern BC Jet Boat Tours | Northern BC Tourism/Abby Cooper If you go
Getting there: Access the Gardner Canal from Kitimat, about two and a half hours east of Prince Rupert on Highway 16. Fly into Terrace Airport (YXT) and drive 45 minutes south.
On the water: Northern BC Jet Boat Tours run full-day tours covering the canal, local hot springs, and wildlife. Book early as trips depend on weather and tides.
When to visit: Come between June and September for stable weather and active marine life. Rain is part of the experience, so pack waterproof layers and a dry bag.
What to bring: Bring a camera, binoculars, swimsuit, hat, and sunscreen. It’s a long day on the water, so come prepared.
Getting Here & Around
Visitors to British Columbia can arrive by air, road, rail, or ferry.
Pacific Rim National Park | Abby Cooper