Dolf Vermeulen

The Infinite Coast

West Vancouver Island
Herring Spawn

Written by: Dolf Vermeulen | April 27, 2026

I’ve been fortunate over the years to take a number of trips to the remote western shores of Vancouver Island with Seaforth Expeditions, each trip a distinct and consistently remarkable experience. This is especially true for their annual herring spawn tours, which signal that spring is just around the corner.

Dolf Vermeulen

Along this stretch of coastline that is wild, rugged, and unpredictable, “spring” can bring anything from calm seas and sunshine to hurricane force winds and wet snow. Add to this the inherent variability of the spawn itself, with peak times shifting year to year, and any attempt to anticipate the timing is, at best, an educated guess. Yet there’s something exciting about the unknown and the spirit of adventure that comes along with it. When Tom, the owner of Seaforth Expeditions, invited me to teach a week-long photo and video focused “Creator Workshop” during one of their herring spawn trips, it was an easy yes. A few days before departing I shared a post which read “there’s something incredibly exciting about not knowing what’s going to happen, while being fully aware of what could happen.”

Arriving at our destination, we were greeted by water that glowed a milky turquoise, a strong briny scent in the air, and an unfathomable number of seagulls circling above us—all clear signs that we had timed things just right. As herring milt converged with the pulsing waters of the Pacific Ocean, countless animals up and down the coast gathered to take their fill. We encountered grey whales, humpbacks, seals, sea lions, sea otters, a huge variety of birdlife, and even a black bear that emerged from hibernation to take advantage of the tidal buffet.

Dolf Vermeulen
Dolf Vermeulen
Dolf Vermeulen
Dolf Vermeulen

We enjoyed several epic days photographing the herring spawn frenzy, each person taking thousands of shots and our camera’s memory cards feeling just as satiated as the wildlife we were observing. With two days remaining we decided to shift our focus to a more elusive subject, the coastal wolf. Tom specializes in leading photographers and film crews to these cherished animals, yet finding a seawolf is always a tall order. Having seen tracks over the previous days Tom led us to a location he knew they frequented. As if it were that easy, there was a wolf standing on the remote sandy beach as we rounded the corner into the protected cove. He quickly checked us out before slipping away into the dense, windswept forest, and while he did not re-emerge that day, we were delighted to hear a symphony of howls coming from the woods as the rest of the pack made their presence known.

Feeling encouraged, we woke at 5:30AM on our final morning, filled our thermoses with coffee, and set up at a new location for first light. After a couple of hours with no sightings, we were about to head back to basecamp for a hearty breakfast when we heard a howl. Moments later, we spotted a wolf running along a beach across the bay. We hopped in the boat, and once again did our best to anticipate their next move. Thanks to Tom’s expertise and a stroke of good fortune, we found ourselves in the perfect spot and that day turned into one that I’ll never forget.

Dolf Vermeulen

We soon encountered our second, third and fourth wolves of the morning, two of which swam across the body of water nearest us to join the rest of the pack. Even from a distance, this reunion was extraordinary to witness! The remaining wolf was a youngster, estimated to be about two years old, and was clearly hesitant to make the swim. He spent a good chunk of the day trotting up and down the water’s edge as his pack mates hunted mice and napped on the other side. Eventually, as the sunlight began to fade, we were thrilled to see him make the crossing to his family on the other side—the perfect end to a perfect day.

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